The Last Echoes of Bhutanese Folklore

The Myth of Nyala Duem

Hidden deep within the mystical forests of Nyala, near the sacred grounds of Ugyen Dargay Choling Goenpa, lies a little-known yet powerful legend from Bhutan’s oral history. It is here that the terrifying tale of Nyala Duem, a malevolent demoness, intertwines with the heroic story of Garp Lungi Khorlo, one of the three famed brothers who once served under the Trongsa Penlop.

This ancient narrative, passed down through generations, speaks of Nyala Duem’s dark magic and her dominion over the forested lands, where she lured and deceived unsuspecting travelers. It was during one of Garp Lungi Khorlo’s epic journeys—set as a trial by the Penlop—that he encountered her deadly illusions, ultimately leading to his tragic end.

Overlooking these haunted woods is Ugyen Dargay Choling Lhakhang, a sacred monastery that stands as a spiritual sentinel, preserving not only the faith of the people but also the age-old stories that define the soul of the land.

This tale remains a testament to Bhutan’s rich cultural heritage—where faith, folklore, and the supernatural meet in timeless harmony.

Story of Nyala Duem – A malevolent Demoness

Not long ago, evenings in Bhutanese homes would often end with children gathered around a fire, listening intently to stories told by elders. These cherished storytelling traditions are now slowly fading, taking with them the rich folklore that once captivated young minds. Among these tales is the chilling legend of the Nyala Duem—a fearsome demoness said to haunt the Wangdue-Trongsa highway.

In the past, as dusk settled, people would hurry home, gripped by fear of encountering the Nyala Duem. According to oral tradition, she dwelled in a shadowy forest nestled in the concave side of a mountain, just across the Chendibji River. The demoness was believed to bring death and disease to locals and travelers alike.

Passed down through generations, the lore tells of the Nyala Duem’s ability to shapeshift—sometimes appearing as a monk, at other times as a beautiful woman, and occasionally as a mysterious man wearing a conical hat.

One of the most well-known stories is that of Garp Lunghi Khorlo, the legendary messenger known as the “wheels of the wind.” It is said that while crossing the area, exhausted and overwhelmed, he wished for the Duem to take his life. Soon after, he saw a beautiful woman by a stream, washing the entrails of an ox—an ominous sign, as the ox was his birth sign.

Eighty-three-year-old Rigyem, from Nyala Drangla Goenpa, recalls that the legend of the Nyala Duem was very much alive during her childhood.

“There were no paved roads back then,” she said. “And out of fear, no travelers journeying between Wangdue and Trongsa would dare spend the night anywhere other than designated stops like Nubding, Chendibji, or Tangsibji. No one would rest in the wilderness between these places.”

According to tradition, the demoness was ultimately subdued in the 17th century by the revered saint Drubthob Druzhida when she attempted to harm him. Disguising herself as a giant serpent, she entered the sacred Nyala Lhakhang. But the saint prevailed, transforming her into a local protective deity. The sacred dagger, or phub, said to have been used in her subjugation, is still preserved at the Lhakhang.

“When Drubzhida subdued the Nyala Duem, she revealed that she was pregnant,” said Angay Rigyem. “She pleaded with the saint to raise her son. He was named Norlha Peza Drugay, and to this day, he is worshipped as our main local deity.”

In earlier times, villagers say even the sight of the Jarong Khashor Chorten at Chendibji would bring memories of the demoness flooding back. But today, such stories are rarely told. Development in the area and a lack of storytellers are contributing to the gradual disappearance of these folktales.

“There’s no one left to pass on the stories. And no one to listen either. That’s how these legends are fading,” said Padey from Tshangkha in Trongsa.

“We only heard bits and pieces here and there. We don’t know the full stories anymore. That’s why the youth aren’t interested,” added Gyembo Dorji of Tangsibji Gewog.

Many elders now fear that these rich oral traditions may vanish altogether. However, hope remains. A group of ten monks studying at Nyala Lhakhang have taken it upon themselves to research and document the legend in a written book.

“Those who know the story can’t recall it in full detail,” said Chimmi Nidup of Nyala Ugyen Dargay Choeling Lobdra in Tangsibji Gewog. “That’s why it’s urgent that we preserve it now, through proper research.”

Thanks to their efforts, the legend of Nyala Duem may continue to live on. Yet many other folktales across Bhutan risk fading into obscurity—silent casualties of modernity and time.

Nyala Duem and Her Seven Demon Siblings

As you journey from Wangduephodrang to Trongsa, just after crossing the Jarukhashor Chöten at Chendebji, you will come upon a vast and mysterious forest known as Nyalalum. It is believed that, long ago, a malevolent demoness named Nyala Duem made this forest her home. She was the eldest of seven infamous demon siblings.

Each of her sisters was said to dwell in different parts of the region. One lived in Tergang, another haunted the path between Trongsa and Jakar Dzong. A third roamed Takrinang, located between Phobjikha and Athang. The fourth resided in Thurmangja, and the fifth in Chuser Lungpa, between Rukubji and Chendebji. The sixth sibling dwelled in Dzongkha Lungpa below Trongsa Dzong, while the seventh, a demon named Gup Lakdum, lived below Tshangkha.

Among them, Nyala Duem was the most sinister. She possessed the terrifying ability to create powerful illusions. Sometimes, she would transform in broad daylight and harm unsuspecting travelers. At times, she took the form of animals; at others, she disguised herself as a human, pretending to help with daily chores—only to deceive and endanger. She could even become inanimate objects to lure her victims.